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The Undercut Is Back

The undercut has been a popular haircutting technique since the Punk era where if your hair didn’t have some form of an undercut you weren’t so cool. And through the past few decades and certain styles hairdressers have used variations to achieve certain looks or simply just to remove bulk in areas of the head. It can be a soft approach or taken to the extreme, but a sure thing is that a disconnect (undercut) whether it is done at the fringe (bangs), sides or back of the head still offers unique way’s of slimming down certain face shapes and adding a bit of stylish edge to a haircut. Being a colorist I have always loved the undercut because it presents me opportunity’s to create fun and easy hair color placement ideas, and with the likes of Rihanna and her disconnected haircuts and a few others today the undercut is finding a little spotlight in 2010.

Hot Chocolate Hair Color



A rich velvety appearance with a raven depth and attitude, Chocolate Brown hair is one of the most requested shades besides Blonde, and possibley one of the most mis-communicated hair colors between consumers and hairdressers. It’s one of those tone’s that everyone see’s in their own way, chocolate brown isn’t as simple as blonde, red, brown, black hair colors. I found that people want their own version of a hot chocolate brown hair color, and 90% of the time it always is completely unlike my own idea of what is a chocolate brown. So what is the real chocolate brown; well it’s on the darker side and in hairdresser terms level’s 3 & 4 with warmth and coolness together, so if you see chocolate being either warmer(redder) or cooler (plumy) your version is correct.














Because chocolate brown has both undertones it truly is important that we (Stylist/Client) have visuals to communicate with, bringing cut out pictures from magazines to your hairdresser is perfect so they can see what you see, a warm chocolate or a cool chocolate. And for me one of the best possible references is with realistic words with common stuff that instantly draw us too them, for example, FOOD, ‘do you like the color of the Hersey dark chocolate kiss, or the color of Pepsi Cola etc. To me a Hersey Kiss has a slight more plumy tone and a Pepsi has a bit more of a red undertone, get the idea? So no matter how we see chocolate brown it remains a classic beautiful hair color that is Oh So Hot and it's making head waves yet again.

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Still Bill: Bill Withers = Greatest Human Being Ever

Still Bill Trailer from B-Side Entertainment on Vimeo.


I saw Still Bill last night at IFC. I was blown away by both the film and the Q&A session with Mr. Withers afterwards. He may be the most engaging combination of hilarious charm and sincere intellectual self reflexion I have ever encounters. It's pretty impossible that anyone there left without wishing that Bill Withers was their best friend.

One of the most touching parts of the film is when Withers visits the Our Time Theater Company an artistic program for kids who stutter. The film delves into the insecurities and stuttering that plagued him until his late 20s and when the children from the program introduce themselves to him with stilted speech you see tears in his eyes.








Muhammad Ali, Bill Withers, and Don King. Photo taken by Jeffrey Levy-Hinte ©, From Soul Power Courtesy of Sony Pictures Classics

Oh and guess what else he said! He loves"No Diggity!"No Diggity by Blackstreet (with a sample from Grandma's Hands)

Orange Crush A Color For Spring 2010


There’s an accent color that is a sure thing to make most of us smile and believe it or not it’s just around the corner, one of this spring’s ‘IT ‘colors is orange and I love it. Orange is a happy uplifting color that can look great with so many other colors, and yes orange has come in and out of trend spolights yet it never has lost its popularity with many people who love the color and wear it well. In the past we saw orange basically be combined with, browns, gold’s, neutrals, now we are seeing it with cooler shades like, sky blues, lavenders, grey even soft pinks and it’s absolutely gorgeous. So put a little burst of orange on either on your lips, eyes, nails, headband, hair, or attire and start a crush on orange.
































































Add Texture To Your Hair ' The New Perm'

Part One Textured hair is very much in the spotlight for spring 2010, and the theme is “Oh Natural”, wash and go. The unique difference with the textures we have started to see and will see more of are not necessary curly tresses but rather what a roller or a braid looks like when unravelled which has a wonderful almost finger wave effect with a slight slept on finish. And unfortunately or fortunately for me who loves doing perms, not everyone was born with curly, wavy or texture to their hair, so for the Look almost everyone wants these day’s who have long to should length hair I say if your hair is not over processed and you put a little effort in styling your hair then get a perm, I like to refer them today as retexture.

In the 8o’s I would do so many perms because the trend was to mimic crimped hair, corkscrew ringlets, I would braid tons of small braids all over the head to achieve the look resulting into the coolest crimped, big hair of that era. Oh the ponytail perms or stack perms we did and then the ringlet, I think through the 80’s and part of the 90’s I was doing at least 2 to 3 perms a week, and today almost 80% stylist do 0 a year. 1/don’t know how to perm 2/hate them, scarred of the chemical solutions 3/never suggest them due to either fear or bad experiences.

It’s time to get rolling, and either learn or start setting hair into how you would set for a style, it’s gorgeous, and thankfully does not last as long as in the past (years) they stylishly loosen up. In the past it was all about root lift and tight curls, today its focus is on smoother flatter roots, with bigger strands of multi-textures through the bottom with less attention to perfect styling, a more organic feel. Retexturing the hair today to achieve these very beautiful looks are easy and fun , and not nearly as hard as perm-rods truly,, I personally have been saying this for the past decade, Start perming and start getting them, today’s products are not as harsh , they come in a variety, for tinted hair, highlighted hair, stubborn hair, sensitive hair, etc. And for stylists rid the fears, if you know how to do a roller set and use curling irons and do braids then you can perm, with less attention to perfect styling, and a more organic feel.
A very sad state since a hairdresser should know all about ‘chemical services’ at least remember the “old lady wrap” excuse the phrase, a basic fundamental taught at cosmetology schools everywhere, hence why all the possibilities I stated above why there are no perms being done today in most salons globally, which leads me to believe there is a huge opportunity with the "texture hair services" you can offer and be a true creative image crafter .

Beauty of Haiti

Courage is not the absence of despair; it is, rather, the capacity to move ahead in spite of despair.
Please Help The Haitian People.

Model Hair Spotlight #6

Rianne Ten Haken

This Dutch beauty at the age of 15 won a modelling competition in 2001 and since then her career went sky high. Known for her sensual lips and piercing blue eyes and her ability to change her hair style and hair color has won her praises from all the major designers. And in an industry that doesn’t always like their models to change their hair color in fear that it might hinder them Rianne is one model that we wait to see what she has done to her hair next. She has gone from brown to black to blonde and now a stunning redhead, and all of those shades looking great on her, and every time she has changed she has ended up with huge ad campaigns. I love when I see high fashion models reinvent themselves through their hair, adding freshness to the catwalks and fashion pages and making statements that it’s cool to have fun with ones hair.